We occasionally get annoyed by the ubiquitous "wall warts" that so much equipment requires these days. But one advantage is that these devices operate under DC voltage. [TechRally] Used this to create an automatic DC UPS with dual outputs to power routers and modems in the event of a power failure. You can see two videos about the project below.
Some people may say that it is better to use a traditional UPS, but please consider it. There is a battery in this UPS that can be converted to AC power, so the wall wart can convert it back to DC power. Of course, every conversion will lose some energy, and in the case of cheap wall warts, you may even lose a lot.
The project contains eight 18650 batteries, an off-the-shelf charge controller and power converter. Can you make a more effective custom design? Maybe, but using these cheap and commonly used modules can quickly and easily put such things together.
No one will mistake this UPS for a business unit, but it does have a certain hacker aesthetic. However, we will not carry it through the airport. With these digital displays and all the wiring, it looks like a bomb prop for a bad TV show.
If you don't care about automatic switching, we heard that 5V will power many devices today, which makes battery operation as easy as stripping a USB cable. This may drive some other devices, such as a connected Raspberry Pi. Or, you can use some super capital letters to do the job.
Think of OpenUPS or microUPS (originally existed for automotive computing needs)
https://www.mini-box.com/micro-UPS-load-sharing
Pop up a few cells and viola: https://www.mini-box.com/OpenUPS2?sc=8&category=1264
I asked, it is not open source
s/viola/voilà/ :-) The viola is a stringed instrument ;-)
Yes, in French, "viola" can be translated as "rape"...... :) So please don't rape electronic products, it may be dangerous ^^
Next time I go to Tosche station, I will buy some power converters.
If my power is cut off, the junction box of the telecommunications company (BT) on the road where I am (in rural areas in the UK) will also be cut off. Once the power is restored, it will take *years* to come back to life. The 4G transmitter a few miles away usually keeps working. I can keep going by binding my phone. Its signal is only 1 bar, at least until more people catch up...
Historically, the American telephone system was independently powered by Edison batteries and DC generators. However, I doubt whether it is currently completed in the fiber to the home (FTTH) service.
In the UK, FTTH (at least my BT) has its own UPS, because BT is legally required to provide fixed-line telephone services.
My ADSL is back to a switch a hundred yards away, so I want it to be in a rack powered by 48V DC (as you said, this is a large battery rack). The power-off time is not long enough to test.
Most FTTH providers are using passive last mile equipment, just like old-fashioned POTS, as long as the CO maintains power, your fiber optic line is active to your home.
Similarly, DSL-based services usually have better luck in the event of a power outage, because copper POTS lines still need to provide a certain level of service uptime for telephone services.
Due to the last mile equipment of all activities and the lack of maintenance of one's own backup battery, cables are often places where things get rough or in many cases completely unreliable.
no. Guess how I know:-/
I have been looking for traditional UPS or simple (no switching) battery backup for my router and modem until I learned that many broadband Internet systems have these connection boxes, which will fail when the power grid is cut off. Therefore, if you are using wired broadband, it doesn't make much sense.
Not bad, but too complicated for my taste. Most network devices with 12V barriers can be directly connected to cheap 12V SLA bricks or even car batteries. These devices usually have their own built-in step-down converters and do not require precise input voltage. All it takes is an old laptop power supply and a simple charger circuit built around LM317. No converters and relays are needed, all these extras will fail anyway.
My thoughts are more like: "Cool TV sci-fi props from the 1970s".
This reminds me of an episode of Knight Knight. Something happened to KITT that made it forget who it was interacting with, and other (bad) things. The climax of the show occurs when "David" refuses to move and Kit threatens to crush him. As KITT slowly approached, "David" reached out to touch under the front bumper, replaced a circuit board, and everything became better. As an RCA TV repairman at the time, I recognized that the circuit board was an RCA TV IF board of the old model line.
I now put a board like this in my car, just in case something goes wrong with Tesla. I know where to put it! j/k
I thought about doing this, and then I tried a second time because it has a larger capacity. It does have a problem with the fan being turned on, but I put it in another room. I just need to upgrade the battery now.
My T-mobile home internet router is installed on the roof because it cannot work in a trailer. The damn thing has a battery, but there is no way to restart it from the web interface. So I have to climb on the roof to restart this thing, which includes removing the battery. Attempts to obtain a 5g trash can equipped with an external antenna, but the chip shortage is limited to new customers. So the battery can be painful sometimes.
The 12 volt voltage constitutes a convenient DC power supply system. Look around and see what low-power things you can run with low-voltage wires instead of a bunch of wall warts. VOIP adapters, routers, modems, TV amplifiers, wall-mounted phones, night lights, mobile phone chargers, smart speakers, Pi holes... As a backup, you only need a car battery and diode, or a super capacitor bank.
If it is typical lead-acid, I do not recommend using car batteries indoors. Those need to vent (afaik).
This is true for all car batteries I have used. Unless they are in an externally ventilated area, you should use sealed lead acid (if you go that way).
Personally, I have been paying attention to lithium iron batteries.
Deep-cycle batteries are a good candidate. They are sealed and more suitable for continuous drawing than standard start-up batteries. Motorcycle batteries are also suitable, are also sealed, and have been used for many years in commercial emergency lighting, etc.
And they are specifically designed for high starting current in physics/chemistry, rather than providing low current for a long time. They will not last long in UPS applications.
Yes...just pay attention to the ground difference returned through the signal cable...I think I just lost a USB hub and an HDMI port. Fortunately, I didn't blow up the hard drive. Back to AC, even if it requires an inverter and a partition wall to isolate the ground of each system...
I have ATTuverse. My router has a built-in battery, but it can only power the phone service through the router. Because I don't have a landline service, the router does not have its own battery. When my wife started working from home, we started to worry about power outages. I found Belkin UPS at the garage auction for free. The battery inside cannot be charged. I changed the battery and I can use the UPS now. The belkin UPS is designed for the backup of the old ATT router, so its power cord is plugged directly into the router I own. Really simple, no modules, keep the Internet open until the battery runs out. (3-4 hours.)
When the device is working, you can remove cells and place different sizes (for example, old and new)
One of my favorite topologies is one of the "MINI USB 5V 1A 18650 TP4056 Lithium Battery Charger Charging Board", which has 1 to 10 18650 parallel power supply "Boost Power Supply Application Boost Module DC-DC 2V-24V 2A" . I use a high-quality microusb power supply to power it. This is effective, but there is still room for improvement.
Ideally, considering that it is always online, I would like the "MINI USB 5V 1A 18650 TP4056 Lithium Battery Charger Charging Board" to stop charging when it is more like 4V instead of 4.2V. Now, if I turn it off, I rely on the current limit of the USB power supply to work. It also takes a long time to recover from a severe interruption.
On the bright side, it provides proper charging, over-discharge protection, and over-current protection for the battery, and it is small, clean, and very cheap. The module in 10 packs runs for about 60 cents at a time. It can power anything, and the boost converter can range from about 4.5V to about 24V.
I have a few UPSs. They are all discarded from work. When the internal lead-acid gel batteries are exhausted, they tend to replace the UPS instead of going inside to replace the batteries. Ask around, no one wants UPS with dead batteries, you can usually get them for free.
I ordered a (brand name) replacement battery from Amazon (the lead is heavy, free shipping is rewarded) and replaced the worn-out battery. I can use the battery for about 4-5 years before I have to replace it again. The old ones are recycled at Lowe's.
If you use 4G service in Australia, this is of limited use. If you use HFC NBN, it is absolutely useless, unless your electricity problem is strictly limited to your own house.
Cellular towers, including those operated by Telstra, have only 4 hours of battery backup, and the running battery is usually only replaced when it completely fails (so it is likely that there is no original prescribed capacity).
HFC NBN (not sure about other types, but suspect that this applies to all types except satellite NBN), and of course you can _ power the NTD from a backup power source (I do; HFC NTD only needs a LM1085IT-12 Satisfy it), it will only flicker during a power outage and start the cycle uselessly, because the amplifiers on the street run on the main power supply without a backup power supply.
I am glad I have a radio license!
My current solution is a commercial (Sherlotronics) DC UPS using 18Ah SLA batteries. Not particularly exciting for Hackaday, but it works well for me. It is a 6.4A unit, divided into 6 1A outputs. Unfortunately, the "ideal topology" of my router and access point is to power the router through passive PoE (24V) and then power the AP at the same voltage. Therefore, I included a 12V-24V boost converter connected to a passive PoE injector and bridged the two UPS outputs to boost 12V@2A to 24V@1A.
Potential useful hacks include rewriting/re-implementing the firmware on the STM8 uC that controls the charging circuit so that it automatically shuts down when the voltage is slightly higher than normal (it supplies power to my setup for about 12 hours, but at this time the battery voltage is It is lower than the life expectancy I want), and add an ESP32 with several INA3221 power monitoring boards for real-time monitoring. The motherboard also has a 12V signal when it is powered by a battery, which can be used to instruct the ESP32 to enter a deep sleep power-saving mode when it is powered by a battery to avoid excessive battery power consumption. Obviously, when running on the main power source, such a strategy may not be needed.
Great build-but for me, all my Internet "devices" such as routers, modems, access points, etc. use PoE injectors, and then my Procurve switch is plugged into the UPS. In this way, all my devices will be online during the power outage.
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